Guide

The debate over watch winders is a common one among timepiece enthusiasts. For owners of automatic watches, the question of whether to use a winder is a significant one. Are they a convenient necessity that keeps your watch ready for any occasion, or do they cause unnecessary wear and tear on the delicate internal mechanism? To settle this, we consulted five expert watchmakers for their professional opinions.

What Is a Watch Winder and How Does It Work?

An automatic watch is a mechanical marvel that self-winds using the natural motion of the wearer's wrist. But what happens when you have a collection or don't wear the same watch every day? That’s where a watch winder comes in. A watch winder is a device that holds an automatic watch and rotates it to mimic the motion of a human wrist, ensuring the mainspring stays wound and the watch keeps accurate time. High-quality winders from brands like Driklux offer customizable settings for Turns Per Day (TPD) and rotation direction to match your specific watch model's needs.

Common Concerns About Using Watch Winders

Many collectors worry about the potential downsides of using a winder. The primary concerns include:

• Overwinding and Mechanical Wear: Can continuous winding strain the watch's movement?
• Lubrication Issues: Does constant motion cause the lubricants inside the watch to degrade or distribute unevenly?
• Magnetic Interference: Could the motor in a low-quality winder magnetize the watch?
• Damage from Poor Quality: Can a cheap, unreliable winder do more harm than good?

Expert Insights: Views from 5 Professional Watchmakers

We posed these questions to five independent, professional watchmakers. Here’s a summary of their consensus:

1. Watchmaker #1 (Vintage Specialist): "A winder doesn't 'overwind' a modern automatic watch, as they have a built-in mechanism to prevent it. The real issue is continuous, unnecessary wear. For a vintage piece, I'd recommend winding it only when you plan to wear it."

2. Watchmaker #2 (Luxury Brand Certified): "The key is using a high-quality, programmable winder. It's not about constant turning; it's about providing the correct TPD. A good winder is a tool for convenience and maintenance, not a storage box. It's far better than letting the oils settle and harden over long periods of inactivity."

3. Watchmaker #3 (Independent Repair Shop Owner): "I see more damage from improper manual winding than from winders. People often apply too much force or cross-thread the crown. A winder provides smooth, consistent motion. The debate shouldn't be watch winder vs. manual winding, but rather proper use versus improper use of either."

4. Watchmaker #4 (Collector and Horologist): "Think of it like a car. Is it better to let it sit in the garage for months or start it occasionally? Most experts agree the latter is better. A winder keeps the movement's lubricants distributed, which is crucial for longevity. Just don't run it 24/7."

5. Watchmaker #5 (Modern Technology Advocate): "The technology in today's silent watch winders is exceptional. They are designed to be gentle and precise. The benefits of convenience and keeping complex calendar or moon-phase watches running far outweigh the minimal, theoretical wear on a well-serviced timepiece."

Benefits of Using Watch Winders When Done Right

The experts agree that when used correctly, the benefits are clear:

• Convenience: Your watch is always set to the correct time and date, ready to wear.
• Reduced Crown Wear: It minimizes the need for frequent manual winding and time-setting, which can wear out the crown and stem seals.
• Optimal Lubrication: It keeps the internal lubricants evenly distributed, preventing them from drying out or settling.
• Longevity: For complex watches (e.g., perpetual calendars), a winder prevents the need for complicated and potentially damaging resets.

Best Practices for Using Watch Winders

To ensure you're helping, not harming, your automatic watch, follow these best practices:

• Choose Quality: Invest in a reputable winder with a quiet, reliable motor and programmable settings. See our guide on how to choose the perfect watch winder.
• Use Correct Settings: Consult your watch's specifications or our TPD guide to set the right Turns Per Day and rotation direction (clockwise, counter-clockwise, or bidirectional).
• Don't Run It Non-Stop: Give your watch a break. Many modern winders have rest cycles. If yours doesn't, consider running it for 12 hours and resting it for 12.
• Regular Servicing: A winder is not a substitute for regular maintenance. Every mechanical watch needs professional servicing every 5-7 years.

Conclusion: A Balanced View

So, are watch winders bad for your automatic watch? The expert consensus is a clear no, provided you use a high-quality winder correctly. The debate is less about whether to use a winder and more about the quality of the winder and the way it's used. A cheap, non-programmable winder can potentially cause harm, but a well-made, properly configured winder is a valuable accessory for any automatic watch owner. It offers convenience, helps maintain the watch's internal health, and is ultimately a tool for preserving the life of your cherished timepiece.